Ask The Costume Goddess:

A Debke Costume

By Dina

Dear Costume Goddess,

I need help getting traditional debke costumes for 5 girls! I live in southern California and I have no idea where to get these! We are performing in front of 1,500-2,000 people in mid-July of this year and we don't have a costume! Please, if you know any way we can have good costumes made for a reasonable price, email me with info. I'm running out of time and I have to come up with something! I don't know exactly what we want--we need ideas. The only thing we agree on is we want to wear the harem-like pants, not long skirts. Hope to hear from you soon!!

--Debke Queen

Dear DQ,

Do not panic! First, a few questions.

Do any of you five have any sewing skills? If not, surely you can find someone who does. If you can't afford to pay her much, maybe she'd be willing to do some sort of trade. Advertise in a local newsletter or bulletin board where you take lessons, find out if anyone is willing to sell or trade or loan their costume pieces. I do urge anyone who dances ethnic to get a sewing machine and learn how to use it--take some pride in using your imagination and ingenuity to create your troupe's image. Many of the patterns employ only straight seams and you need not be a couturier to complete a costume ensemble.

Scarves, sashes, simple blouses, full skirts, and jewelry can be picked up in thrift shops, flea markets and yard sales for next to nothing and one should always be on the lookout for these.

Does a troupe need to be dressed in identical costumes? Not necessarily. That projects a professional image, but can also look a little too Hollywood for some tastes. Some troupes prefer very similar costumes in different colors, allowing more individuality and visual excitement. Some wear costumes of similar type but variation in color, pattern, and details, giving more the impression of village folk getting together informally to dance. This would work fine for debke, and make it easier to assemble five costumes. Do make sure they all are of similarly plain or flashy fabric, so that none stand out like a satin thumb.

I consulted with Mish Mish, a well-known teacher and performer in Seattle who is an expert in ethnic dance. Mish Mish is director, choreographer and costumer for Karavans, the only dance troupe in the Pacific Northwest that specializes in folk and tribal dances of the Middle East and North Africa.

For those who don't know, the debke, Mish Mish informed me, is a popular traditional line dance done in Palestine, Syria, Jordan and Lebanon; it is believed to have been introduced by the Turks during the Ottoman Empire when they ruled much of the Middle East to Eastern Europe. The costume is heavily influenced by Turkish fashion of the 19th century.

The style of costume varies from village to village, country to country, but reflects the native dress of the inhabitants.

The full Turkish pants you want to wear are called shalwar. The simpler version of these are easy to make and most pattern companies have them. You could even use a pair of unstructured pants three sizes too large and pull in the top and ankles with elastic.

I've illustrated two styles of overdress. The tunic on the right is similar to the Gaza dress in the Folkwear line of patterns, and Atira's patterns has several like it called Farida's Folk chemise and Cemiyeh's Caftan. Instead of the authentic heavy gold embroidery (passementerie), bold embroidered ribbons and trim could be used to create the same effect.

The pillbox hat could be decorated with coins and trim , and be worn with or without a veil. The forms for these are available in some costume shops.

The style on the left might be easier to put together in a hurry, and consists of a simple long sleeved peasant blouse, full skirt, and sashes, hip scarves, and a babushka-style head scarf tied behind head or under chin. All of these are not difficult to make or find. An embroidered-trim vest or jacket would be optional. Again, basic sewing skills would be adequate.
Illustration Of Two Debke Costume Options

Flat shoes or boots emphasize stamping steps.

If you need more inspiration, Mish Mish suggests you check out old National Geographics, travel brochures, books and encyclopedias picturing native costumes of Lebanon, Palestine, Jordan or Syria.

DQ, we've all been there--finishing the last details late into the night before the performance, weary little fingers bleeding. Still, I'll state the obvious--if you want to look good, you will spend some money and you will spend some time, so don't stress yourself out by waiting too long!! I hope I've helped!

--The Costume Goddess

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